Tuesday, 24 April 2018

Spettacolare new rock climb on Petit Capucin Roi de Siam

In September 2017 Czech climbers Vaclav Satava and Lumír Fajkos made the first ascent of Spettacolare, an 8-pitch rock climb up Roi de Siam on Petit Capucin (3693 m), Mont Blanc.

Monday, 23 April 2018

8 Ways To Offset Your Training Intensity

8 Ways To Offset The Intensity of Your Training For Better Performance

1. Each week, take 1-2 days off with at least 1 of them full days off (outside of your box)  and the other off day may be an active recovery/light day that is focused on recovery and mobility or doing something refreshing outside of the gym. Most people do well on a 3 on – 1 off – 3 on – 1 off schedule. *If it has been a month and you have done nothing else active besides CrossFit, fix it. It is already too late if it’s been a month.

2. Every 60-90 days take 2-3 days off in a row. Get out of your CrossFit routine, try a new sport or activity or just fully rest and recover. I suggest planning these 3+ days off after a hard cycle of training or especially after a competition.

3. Every 6 months, take 3-5 days off in a row.

4. Implement 15 minutes a day (at the very minimum) of quiet, alone time. Turn the phone off, get away from the computer, close your eyes if you’d like and just let your mind wander. Take deep diaphragmatic breaths and just be thoughtful. *You can do this with a purpose (meditating on a certain topic, prayer etc.) or you can just let your mind go wherever it wants. Just be alone and quiet every single day with no interruptions. The “Calm” App or “Headspace” App work really well.

5. Attend yoga, pilates, tai chi, meditation or another type of practice that forces slower movement. If it is uncomfortable, do it until you get comfortable. I suggest doing something like once a month, to slow your pace down and counter the intensity.

6. Play pick up games and sports (basketball, soccer, volleyball, surf, climb, ski, hike, swim) without a specific goal or time domain but just enjoy the process. Do this as often as possible outside of your CrossFit WODs. Try to do something like this at least a couple of times a month, if not more regularly.

7. Implement play days into your training schedule (or for your clients). Flip tires, climb ropes, create obstacle courses, play dodgeball, throw sandbags, or make up games. None of these options are to be done for a score.

8. Prioritize a practice that is strictly for relaxing purposes (read a book, play music, do puzzles, journal, create art). This hobby is not focused on an outcome or result, but more about enjoying the process and just being present to enjoy it. Prioritize time each week for this, if not more regularly. Too often we are on our phones, computers or in front of the TV (hopefully not all 3 at once). But, there are better ways to unwind, we just gotta make the habit.


The best of the best, know that offsetting their intense  training is incredibly valuable. They know how to push when it matters most, and how to get restored and stay incredibly motivated throughout the season.

What could you implement ASAP to be a better competitor?


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Bouldering World Cup 2018: Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Nagasaki march in Moscow

The second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2018 was won in Moscow yesterday by Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and Japan’s Tomoa Nagasaki. The first stage of the Speed ​​World Cup was won by Reza Alipourshenazandifar and Anouck Jaubert.

Red Bull Der Lange Weg, the Alps ski mountaineering traverse ends in Nice

Yesterday the Red Bull Der Lange Weg came to an end in Nice, France. The long ski mountaineering traverse across the Alps from Vienna to Nice was completed by Bernhard Hug, David Wallmann, Philipp Reiter and Janelle Smiley and Mark Smiley after 1,721 kilometers and gained almost 90,000 meters height difference.

Friday, 20 April 2018

Giuliano Cameroni and Nalle Hukkataival Deal With the Devil in Switzerland

At Göschenen in Switzerland Giuliano Cameroni and Nalle Hukkataival have made the first ascent of the highball boulder problem Deal With The Devil (8B).

Melloblocco in Tour 2018: Cresciano, one of most famous bouldering areas in the world

In the run-up to Melloblocco 2018 that will take place from 3 to 6 May 2018 at Cresciano and Lugano we interviewed Claudio Cameroni, one of the first climbers who helped develop the Swiss bouldering area in the ‘90s in order to find out how Cresciano became one of most famous bouldering areas in the world.

Thursday, 19 April 2018

Alaska: new British route on Mt. Jezebel by Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn

British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Fun or Fear, a new climb up the East face of Mt. Jezebel in the Revelations range of Alaska. Climbed alpine style over two days, the route breaches difficulties up to M6+, 90 deg neve, Ai6 R.